Sights unseen: Singapore's underground culture at the Esplanade

'B-boys' Vik, Faiz and Spyro show off their powermoves at the Esplanade underground subway, where they have the space and privacy to break in peace. Video from YouTube user bboyviksg.

You may have seen them on your way out of a world-class performance or concert at the Esplanade -- breakdancers (also known as b-boys) spinning on their heads, jugglers tossing pins and balls, skateboarders rolling across the floors, and youths lock, pop, and jiggling in front of their dim reflections in the marble walls.

It's not a normal sight for most.

Not in clean, fastidiously manicured Singapore, where permits are mandatory for most any activity. In fact, it's incongruous, almost jarring considering the millions poured into making the Esplanade a magnet for award-winning, highbrow arts performances and exhibitions. Yet the hive and rush of activity along the busy subway route (the underground link connects the Esplanade to the City Hall MRT station) defies mandatory permits, attracting passers-by who gawk and snap photos with their cameras and phones before continuing on to the malls and streets.

But this is what the Esplanade underpass is all about -- talent on the street, unfiltered and in the raw.

The early days

Radikal Forze, a breaking crew, claims credit for turning the Esplanade underpass into an activity hub. "My crew and I walked past the atrium [Esplanade underpass] in 2000 and thought it was the perfect place to practice. Smooth floor, slight air-conditioning, and big space. So we brought our boom box down. We’re the first crew to use that space as a practice spot, and somehow it turned into a home for all b-boys," said Felix, crew leader and manager of Radikal Forze.

Back then they got shooed away. But what about now?

Felix said, “[Initially] we had authorities chasing us away, but we are now more accepted ... so I believe that [the authorities] see us as doing productive activities and not just idling and causing a ruckus.”

Breakdancers with the moves

Now, the underground atrium is packed with beanie-wearing breakers who glide, six-step, and twirl on the marble floors, shiny with sweat. It’s obvious that they’re in distinct groups -- like cliques huddled around canteen tables -- yet they joke, greet, and teach everyone.

A big part of breaking is the dance battle. There were countless occasions during which the crews of the Esplanade faced off amidst boom-da-doom percussion beats. Felix recounts, "Sometimes the dance battles are arranged … and it does get testy sometimes, but that competitiveness evolves the dance. Most crews in Singapore are cool with each other as one of the main codes of conduct in b-boying, to show respect to each other."

 

Jugglers with the skills

The other group of youths attracting eyeballs are the jugglers. But, while they throw and catch balls and pins, sometimes whilst riding on unicycles, don’t call them clowns.

Enthusiast from the Singapore Jugglers Loh Koah Fong said, “I juggle because I find it challenging and it is achievable. Yet it’s something that not everyone has tried.” Can you juggle four balls while blindfolded? He can.

They used to hold their juggling sessions at the Youth Park, but it became "a hassle to get keys to switch on the stage lights. We moved here because it gives us all-round, late night lighting. It is also sheltered so rain isn’t a problem. And there’s a buzz with all the other groups around and passers-by,” said juggler Yvonne Tan.

Nice place, so what?

There’s a bit more to the underpass than it simply being a convenient place to practice, practice, and practice. It’s a place where people can follow their performance dreams, and challenge themselves.

Tan said, "For me, juggling became a world of endless possibilities. It's an activity without limitations. Add one more ball and you'll take two years to learn it. Or I could create my own tricks using my imagination. As I enter the performing world, juggling becomes a way to connect to people and becomes a form of expressing myself."

Felix was more succinct, “We do it ‘cause we love it."

 

getting there

The Esplanade underground link
1 Esplanade Drive, Singapore
www.esplanade.com
From City Hall MRT or the Esplanade, look for signs connecting both places and follow the directions. You'll come across a large open space nearer to the Esplanade. The activities usually start after 7pm, especially on weekends.